Suits for Muscular Men: A Bespoke Tailor's Guide for Gym Guys

Shop suits don't fit muscular men because they're cut for a 6-inch "drop" between chest and waist, while many men who train have a drop of 10 to 14 inches, plus bigger arms, wider lats and thicker thighs. The best suit for a muscular build has room in the chest, shoulders, arms and thighs, a shaped waist, higher armholes and light padding, ideally made-to-measure or bespoke.

My name is Michael Frackowiak, and I'm a bespoke tailor. For more than ten years I've been making suits for men at my studios in Liverpool and Riyadh, and I've worked alongside Savile Row cutters.

I didn't start as a tailor. My first career was in electrical engineering. I learned how systems work, how parts fit together, and why things fail when they don't. It turns out a suit works the same way. When one part is wrong, everything else is pulled out of shape, and nowhere is that more obvious than on a muscular body.

Over the years I've lost count of how many times a man has walked into my studio, sat down, and said almost the same words: "Nothing fits me. I've tried every shop."

He's usually a man who trains hard. Big chest, wide shoulders, strong arms, thick legs, and a waist much smaller than all of that. Maybe he needs a suit for work, a big interview, or his own wedding. Whatever the reason, he's tired of jackets that pull, sleeves that pinch, and trousers that feel like they might split when he sits down.

If that sounds like you, I want you to know something first. Your body isn't the problem. In fact, a muscular build is one of the best shapes to dress. Broad shoulders and a narrow waist are exactly what a good suit is designed to show off. The problem is that most suits were never made for you.

I've cut suits for gym-goers, rugby players, footballers and bodybuilders. In this guide I'll share what I've learned, so you can wear a suit with the same confidence you feel under a barbell.

Why shop suits don't fit muscular men

The simple reason: shop suits are made for an "average" man.

Brands pair a jacket with trousers using a fixed gap between chest and waist. In the trade we call this gap the drop, and most brands use about 6 inches. So a 42-inch-chest jacket usually comes with 36-inch-waist trousers.

Now think about your own body. Many of the men I dress have a 46-inch chest and a 32-inch waist. That's a 14-inch gap. Buy a jacket that fits your chest and the waist hangs like a tent. Buy for your waist and the jacket won't button.

And it isn't just the chest. Shop suits also assume:

• Average arms. Yours are bigger, so the sleeves pinch and wrinkle.
• A flat back. Your lats are wide, so the jacket pulls across your back.
• A normal neck. Your traps push the collar away from your shirt.
• Slim legs. Your quads and glutes make the trousers tight when you sit.
• Straight posture. Heavy pressing often rolls the shoulders forward, which makes the jacket swing open at the front.

None of this means you've done anything wrong. It just means you need a suit built around your body, not a standard one.

What a great fit looks like on a muscular build

When a client stands in front of my mirror for his final fitting, these are the things I check. You can use the same list anywhere you shop.

Your shoulders. The seam should sit right at the edge of your shoulder, with no dent below it and no fabric hanging over. I always start here, because shoulders are the hardest thing to fix later.

Your chest. The jacket should lie flat when buttoned. If you see an "X" of pulling around the button, it's too tight.

Your waist. The jacket should curve in gently at your waist. This is what shows your V-shape. Without it, you look boxy.

Your arms. You should be able to lift your arms, shake hands, reach for something or hug someone without the whole jacket riding up. About half an inch of shirt cuff should show at the wrist.

Your collar. The jacket collar should sit against your shirt collar, with no gap at the back of your neck.

Your back. No lines across your upper back. Those lines tell me the lats are being squeezed.

Your trousers. Room in the seat and thighs, then a clean taper to the ankle. Sit down, squat and walk. If anything pulls, the trousers are wrong.

Your length. The jacket should cover your seat, and the trousers should rest lightly on your shoes.

Common fit problems for muscular men, and how I fix them

What you notice	Why it happens	What I do about it
Jacket looks baggy at the waist	Big gap between chest and waist	Shape the jacket in through the sides and back
Sleeves feel tight	Big arms	Cut the sleeves wider from the start
Can't raise your arms	Armholes cut too low	Cut higher, better-shaped armholes
Lines across your back	Wide lats	Build extra room into the back
Gap at the collar	Thick traps or forward posture	Adjust the collar and the slope of the shoulders
Trousers grip your thighs	Big quads	A wider leg that tapers to the ankle
Trousers pull at the seat	Strong glutes	Extra room in the seat

Here's something many shops won't tell you. A lot of these problems can't be fixed by altering a shop suit. A tailor can only work with the fabric that's already there. Small armholes, narrow shoulders and sleeves set at the wrong angle usually mean the suit needs to be cut again from scratch.

I've had men come to me after spending good money on alterations that never quite worked. It's frustrating, and I'd rather you knew before you shop.

Your three options: off-the-rack, made-to-measure or bespoke

Off-the-rack. This is the cheapest and quickest option. Athletic-fit ranges are better than regular ones, but with a big drop you'll still need alterations, and there's a limit to what they can do.

Made-to-measure. Your measurements are used to adjust an existing pattern. The fit is much better than a shop suit, and it's a good middle ground if your build is athletic but not extreme.

Bespoke. A new pattern is created just for you, and you go through several fittings to perfect it. For very muscular men it's the most reliable way to get every detail right: shoulders, arms, back and legs. It takes longer and costs more, but you get a suit that could only ever fit one person.

My simple advice: if your chest is 8 inches or more bigger than your waist, or your arms and legs are well above average, skip the shop. Go made-to-measure at the very least, and bespoke if you can.

The best suit styles for gym guys

After years of dressing muscular men, these are the choices I come back to again and again.

A single-breasted, two-button jacket. The most flattering style for you. The deep V at the front frames your chest and makes your waist look slim.

Peak or notch lapels in a medium width. Peak lapels point up toward your shoulders and give a strong, balanced look, which is great for formal occasions. Notch lapels are perfect for everyday business wear. Avoid very thin lapels, which make broad shoulders look oddly oversized.

A double-breasted jacket. It can look fantastic if your waist is well defined, but it must be cut properly or it adds bulk.

Two vents at the back. They give room for your seat and let the jacket move when you do.

Light shoulder padding. You already have the shoulders. Heavy padding only makes you look like a box.

A tuxedo for black tie. At a gala, an awards night or a wedding, a well-cut dinner jacket with satin peak or shawl lapels is one of the best looks a muscular man can wear.

A three-piece suit. A fitted waistcoat shows off a narrow waist, and you still look sharp when the jacket comes off.

Trousers with room. Flat front, slightly higher waist, space in the thighs and a gentle taper. Please avoid skinny trousers, which make strong legs look squeezed.

Choosing fabric that moves with you

Fabric matters more for you than for most men. It affects how the suit sits over your muscles, and how comfortable you feel after a long day in it.

• Good-quality wool is my first choice. It breathes, lasts and drapes beautifully.
• Wool with a little stretch is a gift for gym guys. You get freedom to move without the suit looking casual.
• A medium-weight cloth holds its shape and doesn't cling to every muscle line.
• Linen or linen blends are lovely for summer, holidays and outdoor events, as long as you're happy with a relaxed, slightly creased look.
• Heavier wool or flannel keeps you warm and structured through winter.
• What I avoid: very thin or shiny fabrics. They stick to your body and show every wrinkle.

If you tend to run warm, as many muscular men do, ask for breathable cloth and a lighter lining.

The best suit colours for a muscular frame

Navy suits almost every man. It works for the office, dinners and weddings, and looks great in photos.

Charcoal grey is elegant and gently balances a wide upper body. It's the backbone of any business wardrobe.

Black is best kept for evening and black tie, especially as a dinner suit.

Lighter blues, greens and tans are perfect for summer, garden parties and destination weddings.

On patterns, I usually steer gym guys toward solid colours or very subtle textures. Big checks and bold stripes can make a large frame look even larger.

The finishing touches

• Your shirt needs to fit your neck and arms. A tight collar or buttons pulling across the chest will ruin even the best suit, which is why so many muscular men end up having their shirts made too.
• A spread collar balances a thick neck nicely.
• A medium-width tie looks right on a broad chest. Skinny ties look lost.
• A pocket square adds personality without adding bulk.
• Polished Oxfords or loafers in black or brown finish the look.
• A simple watch is all you need.

Training while your suit is being made

This is the part most guides skip, and it's the question gym guys ask me most.

Your body changes as you train, and that affects your suit. Whether you're getting ready for a wedding, a new job, or just building a wardrobe, here's what I recommend.

1. Give yourself time. A bespoke suit takes six to eight weeks to make and made-to-measure about four to six, but if you're training, start earlier so the fittings can keep up with your body. For an important date like your wedding, start six to nine months out.
2. Tell your tailor your plan. If you're cutting or bulking, say so. Extra fabric can be left in the seams so the suit can be adjusted later.
3. Get measured on a rest day. Never come straight from a heavy session. The pump makes your arms and chest bigger for a few hours and throws off the measurements.
4. Avoid big changes before the final fitting. Try to hold your weight steady in the last few weeks.
5. Book your final fitting close to when you need the suit. For a wedding or key event, two to three weeks before is ideal.

A few kilos of muscle can change how a jacket sits across your back. Being honest with your tailor about your training is the easiest way to avoid surprises.

Suiting a group of gym guys

If you're dressing a group, such as groomsmen at a wedding or a team for a formal event, rental and shop suits rarely work for everyone. A few tips:

• Choose a brand that sells jackets and trousers in separate sizes.
• Pick a fabric with some stretch for comfort.
• Plan alterations for everyone, not just one person.
• Keep one colour for the group so it looks consistent, even if the fits differ.

Why the small details matter so much

On an average body, a suit can be a little off and nobody notices. On a muscular body, every small error shows. A shoulder that's slightly too narrow, an armhole a little too low, or a sleeve set at the wrong angle will pull the whole suit out of shape.

That's why I spend so much time on the shoulders during fittings. On a muscular body, that's where everything begins. Get the shoulders, the armholes and the back right, and the rest of the suit falls into place.

How I make suits for muscular men

Everything in this guide comes from what I do every day in my studios. Here's how I work with men who train.

I start with you, not the tape measure. Before we measure anything, we talk. I want to understand how you stand, how you move, what the suit is for, and how you want to feel in it. A suit for the boardroom is different from one for your wedding day, and both differ from a suit you'll wear every week.

I cut a new pattern just for you. I never take a standard pattern and stretch it to fit a muscular body. Your pattern is drawn from scratch around your shoulders, chest, back and legs. It's the only reliable way to fix the problems I described above.

I finish the armholes by hand. For gym guys, this is one of the most important details. Well-shaped, hand-finished armholes let your arms move freely, so you can lift, reach and hug without the jacket riding up.

I shape the lapels by hand. This helps the front of the jacket hold its curve over a big chest instead of flattening out or flaring open.

We work through several fittings. A muscular body has more details to get right, so I take the time. I'll happily spend twenty minutes on the shoulders alone, because that's where everything begins.

You choose from the world's best cloth. I work with respected mills including Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Piacenza. Together we pick a fabric that suits your build, your climate and how often you'll wear the suit.

I also make dinner suits, three-piece suits and wedding suits, so if you have a big day coming up, we can plan around your training so the fit is perfect on the day.

After more than ten years, my favourite moment is still the same. A man puts on a jacket that truly fits him, looks in the mirror, and stands a little taller. Same man, different presence.

If you're tired of suits that don't fit the body you've worked for, I'd be glad to meet you. Consultations are available at my studios in Liverpool and Riyadh.

Questions I get asked all the time

What is the best suit fit for a muscular man?

A suit with room in the chest, shoulders, arms and thighs, and a shaped waist. Made-to-measure is good. Bespoke is best.

Should I buy a slim-fit suit?

Usually not. Slim fit is tight everywhere, and gym guys need room in the upper body and legs.

What does athletic fit mean?

It's a cut made for men with a bigger difference between chest and waist, with more room in the chest, arms and thighs.

Can a shop suit be altered to fit me?

Partly. The waist and trouser length can be adjusted, but narrow shoulders, small armholes and tight sleeves are very hard to fix.

What colour suit is best for a muscular man?

Navy and charcoal are the safest and most flattering. Black is ideal for evening and black tie.

What should a muscular man wear to a wedding?

As a guest, a well-fitted navy or grey suit works for most weddings. As the groom, consider a tailored three-piece suit, or a dinner suit for an evening black tie ceremony.

How many fittings will I need?

Usually two or three for made-to-measure, and three or more for bespoke.

Will stretch fabric look cheap?

Not if it's good-quality stretch wool. It looks like normal wool but lets you move freely.

Can I keep training while my suit is being made?

Yes. Just keep your tailor updated and avoid big changes close to your final fitting.

A final word

You earned your physique. Your suit should celebrate it, not hide it.

The right suit will sit cleanly on your shoulders, curve at your waist, and let you move freely all day, whether you're leading a meeting, giving a speech or dancing at a wedding. Know your shape, choose the right style and fabric, plan around your training, and find a tailor who understands bodies like yours.

When you catch your reflection, I want you to see a man who looks exactly like himself: strong, sharp and completely at ease.

Book a private consultation in Liverpool or Riyadh.

Michael Frackowiak, Bespoke Tailor, Liverpool and Riyadh